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Mandelic Acid

Mandelic acid, however, is a relatively new AHA that is derived from bitter almonds. It was originally utilized as an antibacterial agent used in treating skin after laser resurfacing and as an antibiotic used to treat urinary tract infections. Researchers noticed that after prolonged use, the appearance of skin was dramatically improved. Mandelic acid has the unique ability to target a number of different skin care issues, such as repairing skin damaged by photoaging (prolonged exposure to the sun), combating hyperpigmentation and treating acne, without the irritation that can be caused by other alpha hydroxy acids.

The molecules of mandelic acid are larger than those of glycolic and lactic acids, two other widely used AHAs, which means that they are more slowly absorbed, and therefore less irritating to sensitive skin. Even those who suffer from rosacea can use products with mandelic acid because of its gentle properties and the fact that it doesn’t need to be buffered with other ingredients to be tolerated.

Another benefit is seen by those with darker skin tones. Unlike other alpha hydroxy acids, mandelic acid does not bring about the hyperpigmentation often seen as a reaction to the irritation caused by AHA use, particularly in African Americans and others with dark skin tones.

Like other AHAs, though, mandelic acid causes a rapid improvement in skin texture and appearance, and fine lines and wrinkles are gradually minimized over time with continued use. In addition, it is both an antibacterial and bactericidal, which means that it works well for those with oily skin or who suffer from acne.

MaMa Lotion Mandelic & Malic Acid facial lotion is formulated with 10% mandelic acid and 10% malic acid (an AHA that comes from apples and pears). This unique 20% AHA formulation is much gentler on skin than many products with a lower potency, which means that you get improved results with less chance of irritation.

NuCelle is another company that heavily utilizes mandelic acid in its products. NuCelle designed its products to work as a multi-step system. The first step, Mandelic Wash is a soap- and oil-free cleanser that can be used on all skin types in preparation for exfoliation. This facial wash eliminates bacteria, debris and makeup while loosening dead and dulling skin cells.

Between steps one and two, you may choose to exfoliate two to four times per week. For normal to oily or acne-prone skin, try the Papaya Skin Exfoliator, a gentle buffing scrub that eliminates dead skin cells and alleviates dryness and roughness. An alternative is the Mandelic Mint Scrub, which uses jojoba beads to break the bond of dulling cells and algae and mint extract to soothe the skin while increasing moisture.

The next step is the Mandelic Toner. This is a soothing and hydrating mist that balances and invigorates the skin. The refreshing toner replenishes moisture while protecting against damaging daily environmental factors.

The next several steps depend on your skin type and specific skin care needs. For oily and acne prone skin, try the Mandelic LaserLift Serum 15%, followed by Mandelic Moisture Shine Control. LaserLift Serum diminishes fine lines and creates a smoother, more uniform complexion and is ideal even for those with Keratosis Pilaris, while Moisture Shine Control provides hydration while absorbing excess oil in the skin.

If your skin is normal to dry, an ideal step 3 is the Mandelic Serum 10%. This gentle AHA treatment is designed to smooth and brighten the skin while helping to reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and discolorations. For the next step, try the Mandelic Antioxidant Moisturizer, which is formulated with vitamins A, C, D3 and E, and helps to soften skin while protecting it from damaging free radicals.

For sun protection for all skin types, an alternative step 4 can be the Mandelic Anti-Aging Moisturizer SPF 15 or the SunSense Sunscreen SPF 30+.

To simplify these choices, NuCelle has created handy kits for acne/trouble prone skin, normal/dry skin, and normal/oily skin.

If you have sensitive skin but still would like the benefits of AHAs, try products with mandelic acid.

Article posted 6/18/2007.

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Mandelic Mint Scrub by NuCelle $16.00

Papaya Skin Exfoliator by NuCelle $16.00

SunSense Sunscreen SPF 30+ by NuCelle $30.00