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Which Acid is Best?

Glycolic acid, the smallest alpha hydroxy acid, is often used to exfoliate the skin. It is derived from sugarcane, pineapple, cantaloupe and other natural fruit sources. Glycolic acid weakens the bonds between cells in the upper level of the epidermis, dissolving the outer skin layer and revealing the younger, healthier skin beneath. It can be used on normal to oily skin, but may be too drying for those with dry skin. Because it is extremely dangerous to expose skin to glycolic acid in its purest form, glycolic acid is sold in rather low concentrations. Because glycolic acid is so effective, it is very popular regardless of the sun sensitivity and irritation some people experience after use.

Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are oil soluble, which makes them a good choice for people with oily or acne-prone skin. BHAs can penetrate deep into pores, cleansing them and loosening blackheads. In addition, they are similar in structure to a naturally occurring acid found in skin, so they are generally non-irritating.

Enzymes occur naturally in the human body and other places in nature, such as papaya fruit (which produces papain) and pineapple (bromelain). Enzymes speed up the skin?s metabolism and remove the outer layer of dead cells on the skin?s surface, revealing the plumper, younger cells beneath. Because of this, enzymes are commonly used in exfoliating products.

Lactic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid that is produced as milk sours. Most people are familiar with lactic acid because it is formed in muscles during exercise and can cause cramping?it?s the reason that muscles are sore after heavy exercise. Lactic acid is known to be relatively mild and causes less irritation that glycolic acid. Plus, it works well to combat the visible signs of aging such as fine lines, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation. It is also a very effective humectant, leaving skin feeling moisturized and comfortable. The use of lactic acid to combat the signs of aging dates back to the days of Cleopatra, who supposedly bathed in sour milk to reduce fine lines and blemishes.

After you?ve chosen the acid that best suits your needs, find a formulation that includes your acid of choice. ReBalance by PCA Skin is a lightweight, gentle formula that is perfect for use on any skin type. Plus, it can be used after chemical peels and laser resurfacing to help the skin heal. Lipocils Eyelash Conditioning Gel by Talika lets your eyelashes get in on the action. In this formula, lactic acid helps to soften and thicken your lashes for enhanced beauty.

Instant Radiance Facial Peel by Kinerase contains 15 pre-moistened swabs to make your peel experience as easy as possible. Formulated with gentle lactic and fruit acids to exfoliate the skin, this treatment has little to no chance of irritation. Breakouts are minimized, fine lines and wrinkles are diminished and the complexion regains radiance and vibrancy.

Betaplex Gentle Foaming Cleanser by Cellex-C is a lightly lathering, soothing gel for cleansing the complexion. This nourishing, botanically enhanced formula contains alpha and beta hydroxy acids (1%), lactic acid; cucumber to tighten pores and reduce visible signs of aging; and red clover extract to reduce inflammation. Cellex-C?s Betaplex Fresh Complexion Mist increases the skin?s reflective quality. This is an updated version of the ancient and traditional Japanese ?beauty water? and is suitable for even the most delicate and sensitive skin. The mist is packed with botanical extracts and natural acids to tighten pores and stimulate new skin cells to the surface by encouraging old, dead cells to fall away. It may be used as a toner and makeup foundation for women, or as an after-shave for men.

Hydrolac Lotion by Neova uses a 12% lactic acid concentration to prevent and protect chapped, chafed or wind burned skin. Radiant Skin Cleanser, also by Neova, blends three buffered fruit acids?lactic, citric and tartaric?with a gentle system of deep-cleansing surfactants to dissolve unwanted residues of skin oils, dead surface cells, dirt and makeup. Fresher, cleaner skin is revealed and a radiant complexion is restored.

Article posted 4/29/2008.

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Hydrolac Lotion by Neova $29.20

Instant Radiance Facial Peel by Kinerase $75.00

Lipocils Eyelash Conditioning Gel by TALIKA $40.00