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Why Chirality May Change Everything About Skin Care

Chiral (rhymes with "spiral") is derived from Greek and loosely translates into "handedness". Just as our hands are mirror images of one another, researchers now conclude that molecules are the same way: all molecules exist in both a right-handed and left-handed form, or isomer. Each molecule is composed of an L-isomer and a D-isomer.

The different isomers have different effects upon your body. For generations, chemists have been adding molecules into products with both isomers present at the same time. When this happens, there are three possible effects upon the body:
1. The body will recognize and use one side while considering the other side to be waste and disposing of it.
2. Each isomer will cancel one another out and there will be no effect upon the body.
3. The incompatible side will cause harm and be considered toxic by the body and most likely lead to increased free radical production.

It helps to take a look at an example, like vitamin C, or ascorbic acid. Scientists and nutritionists have known for years that vitamin C boosts immune system function, helps fight oxidants, and can even stimulate the synthesis of collagen, which is why it is such a popular ingredient in skin care products — especially anti-aging remedies. Theoretically, vitamin C should be positively great for skin care — so why don’t all skin care products with this beneficial nutrient work?

It's because ascorbic acid,exists as two isomers: L-ascorbic acid and R-ascorbic acid. The L-ascorbic acid has all the beneficial properties listed above and is a great inclusion in any skin care product. D-ascorbic acid, however, leads to increased dryness, itching, scratching and free radical production. Few skin care companies isolate the molecules into their respective isomers and instead present both of them at the same time, leading to one of the three scenarios listed above. It is easy to recognize chirally correct ingredients: they will all feature either a D- or an L- preface.

The pharmaceutical and skin care industries are both spending billions of dollars each year making sure their new products are "chirally" correct. However, there have been cases when presenting both isomers in a product at the same time led to devastating results, as is the case with Thalidomide. This drug was prescribed to pregnant women during the 1950’s to help curb morning sickness. In 1979, it was discovered that although the D-isomer was recognized and used by the body as intended, the L-isomer was responsible for birth defects.

Skin care remedies made with chirally correct ingredients will not cause side effects and will be recognized and used by the body as intended. The human body is chirally selective and so too must be skin care companies when formulating their products. Chiral compounds are at the heart of every life process, which is why chirality is so important for pharmaceutical and skin care products.

While many skin care brands incorporate chirally correct ingredients to a certain degree, (L-ascorbic acid being a popular component), only a few are dedicated to using solely chirally correct formulas. Among them are PCA Skin, Sircuit Skin and CosMedix.

PCA Skin is a well-respected line of clinical care products designed to address common skin issues like acne (both in teens and adults), skin discoloration and more. From C-Quench, an antioxidant-rich hydrating serum, to Peptide Lip Therapy rejuvenating lip balm, PCA Skin's chirally correct products soothe and strengthen the skin, providing remarkable anti-aging benefits along the way.

Sircuit Skin brands itself as a "cosmeceutical" line, bridging the gap between beauty and skin care products. With a full line suitable for all skin types, Sircuit Skin covers everything from daily cleansing to sun care. Their formulas are full of natural extracts and essential oils, including such diverse extracts as pumpkin, beet, lemon and vanilla, all made to enhance the skin without irritation. While Sircuit Skin specializes in skin care products like their pumpkin-rich Youth Accelerator, they also have a wide range of body products, including Handsome, a moisturizing cream for the hands and body.

CosMedix is a similarly diverse collection aimed at skin perfection. This elegant line ranges from advanced cleansers like their Purity Clean, an exfoliating cleanser featuring soothing peppermint essential oils, to their prismatic eye cream, Eye Believe, which blends chirally correct amino acids, copper peptide and firming coconut extract.

While the availability of chirally correct skin care products may be somewhat limited for the time being, the essential roles that they play ensure that chirality is something more manufacturers and more consumers will be seeking out in the months and years to come.

Article posted 3/26/2007.

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Eye Believe by CosMedix $90.00

Youth Accelerator by Sircuit Skin $75.00

Handsome by Sircuit Skin $36.00