Dermatologist Review of M2 Skin Care

The following review is based on the reformatted/renamed Mama Lotion that is now called HP Refinish. It does not cover any of the other products in the M2 line.

Developed in Utah by Salt Lake City based dermatologist Dr. Mark Taylor, MaMa Lotion is a uniquely potent non-prescription AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) formulation. MaMa Lotion provides clinical results that in some cases rival or surpass those of prescription therapies for the treatment of hyperpigmentation, acne and sun damage. MaMa Lotion is a delightfully descriptive name for this 10% mandelic acid and 10% malic acid gel-like lotion. MaMa Lotion is an AHA product that contains no glycolic acid. Instead, MaMa Lotion contains two larger molecule AHA’s, Mandelic acid and Malic acid, each with pharmacological and clinical properties distinct from glycolic acid. MaMa lotion delivers these longer chain AHA’s in a vehicle consisting of water, protective humectants, thickeners, emulsifiers, fragrance and preservatives. This 2.5 pH 20% non-glycolic AHA product must be used carefully to maximize its therapeutic benefit and minimize complications related to irritation and over-exfoliation. The novel properties of its component AHA’s, mandelic acid and malic acid, are what sets MaMa Lotion apart from more traditional AHA products.

Mandelic acid is a non-toxic derivative of almonds (German – mandel = almond). Mandelic acid is somewhat more potent than glycolic acid and possesses well know anti-bacterial properties that are currently utilized in specialty antibiotics. Like glycolic acid, mandelic acid has demonstrated efficacy in the treatment of acne, photoaging and melasma. The differences are that mandelic acid products are antibacterial which may augment their usefulness in acne therapy relative to glycolic acid products. Mandelic acid products are also anecdotally more useful in the treatment of melasma and are reported to be beneficial in lightening both epidermal (outer) and dermal (inner) layers of the skin. There is no data yet regarding the relative efficacy of mandelic acid vs. glycolic acid products in terms of therapeutic efficacy for the non-pigmentary components of sun damage but both appear beneficial.

Malic acid is a naturally occurring AHA that is abundant in apples and produced intracellularly by all living organisms during the energy production cycle. Malic acid is a natural humectant and promotes epidermal moisturization when applied topically. Malic acid also has anti-oxidant properties which are thought to protect the skin against free radical damage due to solar and environmental exposure.

MaMa Lotion’s therapeutic mandelic and malic acids have beneficial effects on a range of skin conditions including pigmentary issues such as melasma, freckles, age spots and pigmentation from recent inflammation. MaMa Lotion also has beneficial effects on blackheads and non-inflammatory or minimally inflammatory acne. Mama Lotion also exerts a therapeutic effect on skin tone and texture which helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. A potent exfoliant, MaMa Lotion can help to smooth and soften thick dry skin areas on the heels and elbows as well. Finally, while results are variable, some patients find MaMa Lotion helpful for relief of rosacea symptoms.

Because of its heavier and naturally moisturizing AHA’s, MaMa Lotion takes about 10 or 15 minutes to soak into the skin. The product may feel a bit sticky upon initial application but dries with a smooth sheen. It is a potent product and sensitivity can be an issue. Like many topical prescription products, non-prescription MaMa Lotion may provide best results as part of a physician customized and monitored regimen. It is important to test the product on an inconspicuous patch of skin prior to starting therapy to gauge individual sensitivity and reaction. Therapy should begin just twice weekly. Application frequency can be increased based upon individual response and tolerance. Many patients can tolerate daily application but, for some, a lower frequency of application yields optimal results. Therapeutic adjustments are generally necessary to find the optimum regimen for each individual patient. Some patients simply cannot tolerate this product. MaMa Lotion intolerance manifests as red irritated or inflamed skin even with infrequent and/or minimal application. Residual MaMa Lotion should be rinsed off the hands after facial application to minimize palmar peeling. Moisturizers and mild skin care products help enhance MaMa Lotion tolerability. For particularly sensitive patients, applying a moisturizer prior to MaMa Lotion improves tolerability. Daily sunscreen application is also important for optimal results.

In summary, MaMa Lotion is a prescription strength novel AHA product that offers the potential for high performance in various skin situations but, like any other potent formula, must be used with care and caution. The pump container makes dispensing easy and the packaging overall is pleasant. MaMa Lotion appears to be gaining in popularity and line extensions are planned for the future. While not necessarily for everyone, MaMa Lotion is a real winner with certain patients and in certain situations.