Dermatologist Review of NeoCutis

NeoCutis S.A. was founded in Switzerland 2003 as an independent commercial spin-off from the Medical School of the University Hospital of Lausanne. NeoCutis Inc., the American subsidiary of NeoCutis S.A., works cooperatively with its Swiss parent to develop and market skin care products featuring Processed Skin Cell Proteins (PSP®). Unlike many of the ‘Swiss’ skin care lines on the market, NeoCutis is Swiss in more than just marketing sound-bites. NeoCutis hails from a Swiss medical research program, incorporates a unique Swiss cellular skin extract and is the result of the ongoing synergistic efforts incorporating Swiss researchers, entrepreneurs, marketers and investors. While the NeoCutis cosmeceutical line is multifaceted to a degree, the heart of NeoCutis is the proprietary skin care ingredient PSP.

NeoCutis (from the Greek neo = new and Latin cutis = skin) obtains PSP from a dedicated cell bank that was originally established for wound healing and burn treatments. The cultured cells from this bank not only serve as raw ingredients for NeoCutis products but also in ongoing research projects on wound healing, eczema, psoriasis and vulvar concerns. The idea behind the application of PSP for cosmeceutical purposes relates to a contemplation of scarless healing that has been shown to occur in fetuses after wounding. It is thought that the various biologic elements such as cytokines and growth factors present in the fetal environment play a role in preventing this scaring. PSP contains a bio-similar array of cytokines and growth factors and was thus studied on a number of patients with mild burns or wounds. The results were found to be favorable and indicated that PSP might be beneficial in improving skin’s texture, color and general appearance particularly after the original wound had completely healed. These results have also served as rationale for study of PSP in the adjunctive treatment of seborrheic dermatitis, rosacea and dyspigmentation.

The NeoCutis offering is focused and consists of nine distinct products of which six contain PSP. The non-PSP products include cleansers and an antioxidant serum. Cleanser selections are simple fragrance and dye-free formulations consisting of the very mild non-foaming Neo-Cleanse Gentle Skin Cleanser and the 10% glycolic acid containing Neo-Cleanse Exfoliating Cleanser designed for normal to oily skin. PREVedem Antioxidant Serum is a niche product for use under a moisturizer or SPF product and contains natural polyphenols and witch hazel extract as cosmeceutical actives.

The PSP offering by NeoCutis includes the four product Bio-Restorative line containing Journée Day Cream SPF 30+, Lumière Eye Cream, Skin Cream and Hydrogel, as well as the more PSP-rich Bio-Serum Intensive Treatment and Intensive Spot Treatment. The concentration of PSP in these products is 0.1% in the two concentrated products and less in the others. The optimal concentration for PSP related benefits is apparently not completely understood at this time. PSP has been not been found to be irritating or sensitizing at concentrations at least five times greater than that present in the current NeoCutis offering.

NeoCutis’ product line is, generally speaking, a pleasant and well tolerated offering made with high quality ingredients using world class manufacturing processes. The flagship PSP/Bio-Restorative lines and general product offering has been well received by the market. Recently, I personally tested some NeoCutis products. Neo-Cleanse Gentle Skin Cleanser performed effectively with exceptional mildness but was otherwise not particularly remarkable. I also experienced Journée. Journée Bio-restorative Day Cream SPF 30+ contains green tea extract, melanin and vitamins C and E for additional photo/anti-oxidant protection as well as an SPF boosting micro-spherical ingredient called SunSpheres that decreases the total amount of elegance-detracting sunscreen ingredients required to reach its 30+ SPF. Journée is a well-formulated protective day cream with moisturizing properties and a fine application texture. Journée is sheer and leaves the skin feeling light while accenting it with a well balanced subtly tinted protective sheen.

NeoCutis products certainly represent a pleasant skin care experience and they have been well received in America. One question that many in dermatology and in the cosmeceutical community have, however, regarding PSP and other similar skin cell protein extract cosmeceuticals relates to the overall benefit portfolio provided by this skin extract ingredient class with respect to overall aesthetic and/or functional benefits for skin. Despite studies exploring this question by various companies and research institutions, the answer is not yet entirely clear.

NeoCutis has funded and overseen a couple studies examining the benefits of Bio-Restorative products, Skin Cream and Lumière Eye Cream. These studies were non-blinded, non-placebo controlled primarily subjective studies that did demonstrate improvement in skin aesthetics parameters after six to eight weeks. These studies show nice results but one cannot utilize them to tease out the specific contributions of PSP on the perceived improvement. Fortunately, NeoCutis is engaged in ongoing studies of PSP which will hopefully shed more light on the specific anti-aging contributions of topical PSP application.

NeoCutis products are packaged in a variety of tube and pump containers that seem somewhat disjointed when viewed side by side. The products are also made in different manufacturing centers both in the United States and Switzerland. Package quality is fair to good and box quality is fair. Branding is not entirely consistent and suggests an evolving branding effort as well as some products that stray outside of the overall branding parameters. NeoCutis has focused its marketing efforts on dermatologists and plastic surgeons. This is consistent with their medical heritage and desire to promote the science behind the products as a key distinguishing feature of the brand offering. The overall idea is apparently to position this offering as a prominent Swiss clinical and scientific cutting edge skin care line closely linked to dermatologists and plastic surgeons. This effort seems to have had some success.

In summary, NeoCutis is a scientifically focused Swiss cosmeceutical entry into the prestige skin care segment. NeoCutis’s flagship ingredient is PSP (processed skin proteins) and the product offering does include a number of other active cosmeceutical ingredients. Marketing and branding have been somewhat unconventional but the offering seems to have been well received thus far. It will certainly be interesting to watch the continuing evolution of this unique Swiss scientific cosmeceutical company.