These days, the vast multitude of skincare ingredients can be a bit dizzying—particularly when sometimes-scary words like “acid” show up on product labels. But when it comes to lactic acid, fear not! This ingredient can give dull, dry, aging, and even irritated skin new life. And what more can you ask from a tube, tub, or bottle?!
What Is Lactic Acid?
“Lactic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid that gently exfoliates the top layer of the skin,” says Dr. Elyse Love, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in NYC. In addition to buffing away dead skin cells and flakes, which can prevent both white and blackheads, it can increase cell turnover and collagen production in clinical doses. It also draws moisture into the skin, which reduces the appearance of fine lines. The result? “Smooth, hydrated, and glowing skin,” Dr. Love says.
While you might think such an effective ingredient would do a real number on sensitive skin, it’s actually fairly gentle, she adds, proclaiming it suitable for most skin types when used properly. That includes melanin-rich skin, since lactic acid helps normalize pigment production leading to more even skin tone, according to Dr. Love.
Although it shouldn’t be fair for one ingredient to do so much for so many, lactic acid is also pregnancy-safe—a good thing for mamas-to-be who really want to glow.
How to Choose a Lactic Acid Product
You can find lactic acid in almost any skincare category, from cleansers and serums to moisturizers and masks. Some good rules of thumb, according to Dr. Love: Serums tend to be the most potent while daily cleansers tend to be gentler. Meanwhile, the strength of masks can vary since they’re not meant to be used more than a couple times a week.
Concentrations tend to range between 2 and 11%, so mind product labels when you’re just starting out. Got sensitive skin? A concentration of 2 to 5% should do the trick. “Higher percentages will give deeper exfoliation but potentially more irritation,” Dr. Love warns.
If you’re looking for a lactic-acid product that’s dermatologist-recommended, start with any of the following—they all top Dr. Love’s list: